In Hungary’s capital, better known for goulash than pizza, a city-centre eatery is offering a unique culinary journey back to ancient Rome  long before tomatoes, mozzarella or even the word “pizza” existed in Europe.

At Neverland Pizzeria, founder Josep Zara and his team have launched a limited-edition pie made only with ingredients that were available during the Roman Empire nearly 2,000 years ago

Zara said the idea came from curiosity about what early forms of pizza might have tasted like. Since tomatoes arrived in Europe centuries later from the Americas and mozzarella was not yet invented, true pizza did not exist in Roman times. However, Romans did enjoy baked flatbreads topped with herbs, cheese and sauces — considered ancestors of modern pizza.

His inspiration grew after archaeologists discovered a fresco in Pompeii in 2023 showing a focaccia-like flatbread topped with items such as pomegranate seeds, dates and spices. Zara then studied Roman culinary history, consulting historians and an ancient cookbook, “De re coquinaria,” to identify authentic ingredients.

Head chef Gergely Bárdossy said the team experimented for months, facing challenges like making dough without modern running water. They finally used fermented spinach juice to help the dough rise. Ancient grains such as einkorn and spelt form the base, giving the crust a denser texture than typical pizza.

The unusual toppings include olive paste (epityrum), garum  a fermented fish sauce popular in Roman cuisine  confit duck, pine nuts, ricotta and a grape reduction.

Bárdossy noted the dish is meant as a special experience rather than everyday food, appealing mainly to curious diners seeking something different. Zara said the project reflects the restaurant’s aim to blend innovation with respect for tradition  though he joked there is one modern topping they still refuse to use: pineapple.